Having completed the box joinery on my necklace case project, it's time to move on to the lid or top. The client has also asked for a mitered top, rather than rail and stile in order to keep the same clean lines as the case itself. I had several joinery options here, I could have done a mitered half lap, a saddle joint, or splines along the miter joint, or across. I ultimately decided to do splines across the glue joint mainly because I have a jig already that I use often times for making small mitered boxes. Once again, this keeps the exposed joinery to a minimum, but leaves a fairly strong joint.
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5 comments:
thanks for your article
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Rob, Great website. I have finally gotten through all your videos. Really liked the spline jig you have and will be making up one for my shop. One question though about the splines you are putting in the case portion of the project. Shouldn't the grain of the splines be running perpendicular the grooves rather than in the same direction. The way you currently have them, their strength is greatly reduced. Having the splines set with the grain horizontal would also diminish the contrast that will currently show up with the end grain of the spline when finishing. Keep up the good work.
I just posted the newest video in this build, and I'm hoping it will help to answer the question about the splines. Very true that orienting the grain of the splines in the same direction as the grain of the miters is a stronger spline. However, I had to drive the splines down from the top during glue-up, which creates quite a bit of resistance. Had the grain run across the splines, they would have likely snapped in half during this process. And in practice, I really don't think the box joints have an opportunity to receive anywhere near enough racking stress for the grain direction of the splines to actually make a difference. But a very good point that I should have made in the video. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video. Great job! Great tip about using the Dado blades to create a squarer cut.
Out of interest, why didn't you just tilt the blade to 45 degrees, and run the sides through with the blade facing the mitre cut?
Nice video posted in your blog.Thanks to post.
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